2 Days in Big South Fork With Kids: Best Hikes & Weekend Itinerary
A hidden stretch of the Big South Fork National River, discovered on the Honey Creek Loop Trail—Proof that adventure doesn’t always mean crowds.
After a summer of constant travel, we came into August tired and off balance. Our son was starting 2nd grade, we were both stepping into new semesters full of teaching, research, and admin, and our 118-year-old house still demanded every spare minute for remodeling. What we needed most was a pause—so we pointed the car two hours down the road and spent the weekend exploring Big South Fork National River & Recreation Area. I’m embarrassed to admit that after ten years of living just two hours from here, this was the first time I’d ever visited—and boy, I had been missing an amazing place.
- Base: Cozy Airbnb cabin in Oneida, TN.
- Day 1: Double Arch Trail (choose your adventure — 3.6 mi easy, 4.9 mi moderate, or 6.0 mi rated strenuous but we found it pretty moderate; allow 3-4 hrs for longer hike; go left at the fork) + East Rim Overlook.
- Day 2: Honey Creek Loop (5.5–7 mi with explorations, strenuous, 6–7 hrs; counterclockwise) + Honey Creek Overlook.
- Kid highlights: NPS passport stamp, Junior Ranger book, new hiking pole.
- Treat: Mary Belle’s Ice Cream Shoppe (Oneida).
Starting our Big South Fork weekend at the Bandy Creek Visitor Center — where we picked up maps, a hiking pole for our son, a Junior Ranger book, and a new NPS passport stamp.
We checked into a cozy Airbnb cabin just outside Oneida, Tennessee. Tucked into the trees yet close enough to town for a Walmart run, it gave us the best of both worlds. That first night was intentionally simple: roasting marshmallows and hot dogs around the fire and letting the quiet sink in after weeks of noise and busyness.
Day 1: Double Arch Trail & East Rim Overlook
We started our visit with a stop at the Bandy Creek visitor center. While the main park headquarters was closed, Bandy Creek offered a small but helpful stop—and most importantly, our son finally got his first extendable hiking pole, something he’d been asking for all summer. Armed with maps, snacks, a new NPS passport stamp, and a Junior Ranger book, we headed for the Double Arch Trail.
The Twin Arches are the crown jewel of Big South Fork, and there are a few ways to see them depending on how much time you have:
Short Option: 0.7 miles round trip from the trailhead just to the arches and back.
Moderate Option: 4.9 miles for the Twin Arches Upper/Lower Loop.
Longer Option (what we did): 6.0 miles for the full Twin Arches Loop, which includes the arches as well as a hike down to Charit Creek Lodge, Jake’s Place (a historic homestead), and several enormous rock shelters before climbing back up to the arches.
We chose the 6.0-mile loop, which is rated moderate. The terrain rolls through forest and sandstone bluffs, with a decent climb back up from Charit Creek at the end. Plan for 3–4 hours so you have time to explore.
Looking up in awe beneath the sandstone North Arch on the Double Arch Trail at Big South Fork.
At the fork near the trailhead, we went left and were glad we did—the inclines were gentler, which made the approach easier. The South Arch was the first we reached, and it quickly became our son’s favorite—he scrambled through its cave-like opening again and again. From there, we continued on to the North Arch, where the span rises high above the forest. Around this arch, we picked up the loop that winds down to Charit Creek Lodge. We wandered past the historic Charit Creek Lodge and explored old homesteads before heading back. The massive rockhouses—those enormous overhanging cliffs—were easily our favorite discovery of the day.
By the time we circled back, we got to finish the day in the most memorable way—climbing across the top of the North Arch itself.
(Full details of Double Arch Trail coming soon in a separate post!)
Standing beneath South Arch on the Double Arch Trail — one of the largest arches in the Eastern U.S. that we explored at Big South Fork
We wrapped up the day with a drive to East Rim Overlook, where we spotted tiny people down by the river and tried out the colorblind viewfinder that offered a different lens on the landscape.
Instead of rushing back to make another campfire dinner, we decided to head into town and give ourselves more time to explore at a slower pace. Over dinner at a local restaurant, our son happily worked away on his Junior Ranger book—tired but proud after a full day of adventure.
Day 2: Honey Creek Loop
Monday morning we set out early for the Honey Creek Loop, often called the park’s best hike—and for good reason. This ended up rising to the top of our favorite trails in the Eastern U.S.
Climbing into one of the massive rockhouses on the Honey Creek Loop Trail — complete with a rope to help scramble up the sandstone ledge. This part wasn’t so kid-friendly so Dad did a little solo exploration while we played at the creek below.
The trail is officially about 5.5 miles, rated strenuous. Most hikers (ourselves included) clock closer to 6–7 miles with side explorations, and it can easily take up to 7 hours to complete. The challenge comes more from the rugged terrain than from big elevation gains—expect constant scrambling over boulders, squeezing into caves, splashing through creeks, and climbing short but steep pitches. It’s a trail that keeps you engaged at every turn, with waterfalls, rock shelters, and hidden passageways woven throughout. It was definitely a challenge for our 7-year-old, but the trail was so dynamic it kept him excited until the very end.
Squeezing through mossy boulders on the Honey Creek Loop — one of many spots where the trail felt more like an adventure course than a hike
We hiked the loop counterclockwise, as recommended, and it turned out to be a great choice—the flow of the scrambles and crossings felt more natural that way.
Halfway through, our son was stung by a wasp, and for a moment we thought the day was over. But thanks to the kindness of a couple of fellow hikers—and our son’s determination to see the cave—he kept going, more excited than discouraged. That resilience, paired with the small connections you make with strangers on the trail, became one of the quiet highlights of the hike.
(I’ll share a detailed guide to Honey Creek Loop in a future post!)
After finishing the trail, we drove to Honey Creek Overlook for one last sweeping view before leaving the park.
A Sweet Ending
On our way out of Big South Fork, we stopped at Mary Belle’s Ice Cream Shoppe in Oneida to celebrate—a small tradition that felt like the perfect way to close a weekend of big adventures.
Reflections
What surprised us most about Big South Fork was just how grand it felt: soaring cliffs, massive rock shelters, miles of trails—and hardly anyone there. For much of the weekend we had the trails to ourselves, which made it feel even more special.
I’m still struck by the fact that we’ve lived just two hours away for a decade and had never made the trip. Big South Fork reminded me that sometimes the most awe-inspiring places aren’t across the ocean or tucked into faraway mountain ranges—they’re right in our own backyard, waiting to be discovered.
We came for a quick reset and left already making plans to return. Big South Fork wasn’t just a convenient weekend away. It was awe-inspiring, restorative, and far cooler than we expected—and 100% a place we’ll come back to.
If You Go: Big South Fork (2 Days)
Base
Oneida, TN — Airbnb cabin. Close to amenities; expect drives to trailheads.
Drive time: ~2 hrs from Lexington, KY.
Visitor Centers
Bandy Creek Visitor Center (maps, stamps, Junior Ranger books; small store).
Tip: HQ was closed when we arrived; Bandy Creek was open.
Day 1 – Double Arch Trail
4.9 miles RT • Moderate • 3–4 hrs
- At the fork near the trailhead, go left for gentler inclines.
- South Arch: cave-like opening to explore.
- North Arch: walkable span across the top.
- Historic stop: Charit Creek Lodge & old homesteads; huge rockhouses.
Day 2 – Honey Creek Loop
Officially ~5.5 miles (we clocked ~6–7 with explorations) • Strenuous • 6–7 hrs
- Hike counterclockwise for better flow.
- Expect scrambling, caves, creek crossings, and short steep pitches.
- Bring dry socks & headlamp/flashlight for caves.
Overlooks
- East Rim Overlook (Day 1): boardwalk + colorblind viewfinder.
- Honey Creek Overlook (Day 2): sweeping final view.
Post-Hike Treat
Mary Belle’s Ice Cream Shoppe (Oneida) — perfect celebration stop on the way out.
Notes: Trails can be rugged and lightly trafficked; carry a paper map/GPS, extra water, and a small first-aid kit. Honey Creek blazes can be subtle—watch carefully and allow extra time for side features.
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Christal Badour, PhD, is a clinical psychologist, professor, and writer who believes in resisting hustle culture and finding awe through slow, meaningful travel with her family. She’s traveled across four continents, often blending work and play through teaching abroad and cultural immersion. Christal is the creator of We Went Anyway (www.wewentanyway.com), a family travel blog about choosing presence over perfection and building a full life through adventure, big and small. When she’s not writing or hiking, you’ll find her sipping peppermint tea on her porch with friends, building Legos, watching YouTube videos to inform the slow remodel of her 118-year-old home, or planning the next family adventure from her home-base in Kentucky.